ROAD RUNNER BARN FIND SURVIVOR #'S MATCHING RUNNING & DRIVING PROJECT (1969)
Sale price: US $23,000.00 Make an Offer
| Condition: | Seller notes: |
| Year: | 1969 |
| Make: | Plymouth |
| Model: | Road Runner |
| Vehicle Title: | Clean |
| Mileage: | 05602 |
Gentry, Arkansas, United States
Vehicle description
NUMBERS MATCHING 1969 ROAD RUNNER SURVIVOR
I have been doing paint and body work for over 30 years. The body"s condition is something that I really pay attention to. This one is in amazing shape for being a 53 year old unrestored survivor! It"s about as rust free as you could expect from an old barn find that has sat for years. License plate sticker says 1984.
The R. rear quarter panel will need replaced for damage only, NOT rust! The center of the trunk will need replaced because that is the lowest part of the trunk that holds all water that has leaked in through the years. There is a tiny spot by driver"s door sill and under the NEW battery box I installed. It had a black vinyl top that I removed to reveal VERY little rust. The little rust on this car is shown in the pictures. The floors, rockers, frame structure, and torque boxes have surface rust only. The only panel not original to the car is the hood. It was replaced years ago with a B5 blue one and black stripes were painted on it (inserts are original to the car). There is a weld repair on L front of the original K member that I took a picture of (maybe happened the same time as the R. rear quarter panel). I would replace it with a good used one or buy a new one with disc brakes.
I bought this car at a local swap meet straight from the farm. The original 383 engine did not turn and the carb was missing. I put a lot of Sea Foam - Deep Creep down the cylinders and Marvel mystery down the intake and waited three weeks. I drained the oil overnight and replaced it with Royal Purple 10W30 with Zinc and a new filter. I put a new battery in, turned the key and it turned over with ease. I then installed an Edelbrock 650 carb I had and new spark plugs and it fired right off. I then put a new fuel cell I had into the trunk and put new fuel hose and filter on it. The original water pump and thermostat was replaced along with a new air filter. Power steering works good.
The trans fluid was nice and red, so I topped it off. I then turned to the brakes. The RF wheel cylinder and hose was bad as well as the master cylinder, I replaced them and it stops good. I kept the original master cylinder and water pump in case you wanted to rebuild them. I also have a new wheel cylinder and hose for the L. side that goes with.
I have put a couple of miles on it and it runs, drives, and stops good. The factory tachometer, temp, and amp gauges work as well as the wipers, heater blower, lights, interior lights and even the Beep Beep horn. Please ask any questions you may have. Do not hit the "buy it now" without contacting me first. Four79two284three04.
I have been doing paint and body work for over 30 years. The body"s condition is something that I really pay attention to. This one is in amazing shape for being a 53 year old unrestored survivor! It"s about as rust free as you could expect from an old barn find that has sat for years. License plate sticker says 1984.
The R. rear quarter panel will need replaced for damage only, NOT rust! The center of the trunk will need replaced because that is the lowest part of the trunk that holds all water that has leaked in through the years. There is a tiny spot by driver"s door sill and under the NEW battery box I installed. It had a black vinyl top that I removed to reveal VERY little rust. The little rust on this car is shown in the pictures. The floors, rockers, frame structure, and torque boxes have surface rust only. The only panel not original to the car is the hood. It was replaced years ago with a B5 blue one and black stripes were painted on it (inserts are original to the car). There is a weld repair on L front of the original K member that I took a picture of (maybe happened the same time as the R. rear quarter panel). I would replace it with a good used one or buy a new one with disc brakes.
I bought this car at a local swap meet straight from the farm. The original 383 engine did not turn and the carb was missing. I put a lot of Sea Foam - Deep Creep down the cylinders and Marvel mystery down the intake and waited three weeks. I drained the oil overnight and replaced it with Royal Purple 10W30 with Zinc and a new filter. I put a new battery in, turned the key and it turned over with ease. I then installed an Edelbrock 650 carb I had and new spark plugs and it fired right off. I then put a new fuel cell I had into the trunk and put new fuel hose and filter on it. The original water pump and thermostat was replaced along with a new air filter. Power steering works good.
The trans fluid was nice and red, so I topped it off. I then turned to the brakes. The RF wheel cylinder and hose was bad as well as the master cylinder, I replaced them and it stops good. I kept the original master cylinder and water pump in case you wanted to rebuild them. I also have a new wheel cylinder and hose for the L. side that goes with.
I have put a couple of miles on it and it runs, drives, and stops good. The factory tachometer, temp, and amp gauges work as well as the wipers, heater blower, lights, interior lights and even the Beep Beep horn. Please ask any questions you may have. Do not hit the "buy it now" without contacting me first. Four79two284three04.