Dodge Coronet R/T Rolling Shell -See Pics & Description -Real Deal 440 R/T (1967)
Sale price: US $3,500.00 Make an Offer
| Condition: | Used | Year: | 1967 |
| VIN : | WS23L71120263 | Mileage: | 1000 |
| Number of Cylinders: | 8 | Model: | Coronet |
| Disability Equipped: | No | Transmission: | Automatic |
| Drive Side: | Left-hand drive | For Sale By: | Private Seller |
| Drive Type: | RWD | Warranty: | Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty |
| Sub Model: | R/T | Exterior Color: | Green |
| Vehicle Title: | Clean | Trim: | R/T |
| Make: | Dodge |
Graham, Washington, United States
Vehicle description
1967 Coronet R/T Rolling shell as shown. This was taken off the road 25+ years ago or so and was going to be made into a bracket car, but never happened. I only have what is shown, all the parts are long gone. The tunnel was cut for a 4 speed, but the car is an original automatic car. I am including the shown tunnel section that easily covers all the damage done by cutting.
The best part of this car is it is practically rust free and what rust there is is just surface rust. The frame rails, floor pans, trunk pan, window channels, inner quarter drop panels, I could go on and on are all in solid condition. I have a lot more pics, just ask if you want pics of a certain area as I took 125 pics and only have room for 12 in this listing. Would be an excellent candidate if you have a mostly complete R/T that is a rust bucket, just transfer parts. There are a couple of funky heavy steel brackets welded to the frame rails about where your feet would go if you were in the front seat, that will need to be removed, not sure why they are there, but I have pics, just ask.
Original 8-3/4" axle is present as are the original staggered leaf springs. The rear brakes are the correct 11" drums. The fronts are NOT original, I put 10" B body drums on just to roll the thing around as disc brakes were in the plan for racing but never happened. Front K member is original with the proper style idler arm. Power steering was original, although I was going to change that to manual but never did. The steering box will need a rebuild as it is a bit gritty in feel. Torsion bars are original.
The sheet metal is also in rust free condition. Years ago I had the Hood, Doors and Fenders dipped and shot immediately after with DP-90 to preserve them and that DP coating is still in excellent condition. There are a few dings and dents in the doors and fenders, but overall, they are what you would pay top dollar for anywhere, they are that good. The Hood is in very nice shape outside and inside, however it is NOT the original R/T hood, it is just a standard Coronet hood with no holes for the fake scoop. Sold the original hood many years ago, I was going to go with a fiberglass 6 pak hood, never did though. The quarters, roof, firewall, inner fenders, rockers, tail panel, etc. etc. etc. are all solid with nothing more than some surface rust here and there. Like I said, just ask for more pics, I can send 5 at a time I think through Ebay"s message system. The left quarter panel has a pretty good lateral dent, but since it is so solid, I would not replace it, just pull the dent. There are other small dings and dents in the quarters, but again, they are so solid.
I guess I should have said that this car has spent the last 30+ years either in a storage unit, my shop or my garage, so in that time it has always been undercover and since it is just mostly sheetmetal and steel, no rodents have even bothered with it.
The roof is in excellent condition, nice and straight, just the paint is sunburned. About the only trim left on this car is the drip rail moldings, so those will be included as shown in pics. There are some extra holes in the fender aprons and the firewall that should be welded shut for a real restoration, not bad but thought it best to mention. There is also some minor damage at the very bottom of the radiator support (26" style) that does not affect it"s use, but could use a little work, again I have pics, just ask.
This was a automatic car with console (rear bracket still in place), bucket seat BLACK interior with manual windows and no AC of course. The exterior was that darker green Mopar color of the era, I have a really good pic of the under side of the deck lid that shows the original paint very well, just ask. The wheels are just some beater 14" wheels with the old bias ply tires on them, definitely NOT ROAD WORTHY, although they would be just fine for sitting on a trailer. Some things I do not remember as I am getting a little older, but I believe the power steering was original as were the manual drum brakes.
I am NOT including the fender tag or broadcast sheet because I CANNOT FIND THEM, although I had them years ago. 2 moves and 2 kids later, I can"t find crap in this house or in my shop. That being said, if I do find them, I promise to send them to the winning bidder, but ONLY IF I find them, which may not happen and most certainly won"t happen before the car is sold and picked up.
Sorry to have written a book on this, but I like to be thorough. Although I am sure I have forgotten something, so just message me with any questions or requests for pics.
I am not going to be responsible for any shipping arraignments, so that is up to you to figure out. $200 non-refundable Paypal payment is due within 48 hours and full Payment is due in 7 days via Certified bank check or Cash if picking up within 7 days. NO PAYPAL for the balance.
I am all the way up in the NW corner of the country, so shipping could get pricey for the mid-west or east coast, heck it"s pricey no matter what, that"s why I"m hoping for a fairly local buyer.
The most important part of this transaction IS COMMUNICATION. Please, if you are the winning bidder, make contact often to keep me in the loop as to all the details. I have no problem storing the car for a month after the auctions, anything longer and we will have to discuss options.
My price is my bottom line. I would consider selling less the fenders, doors, hood, deck lid, rear axle assembly or some combination of all or some of these items. I would listen to offers minus some parts and go from there.
I have a Washington State clean title in MY NAME, so no problems there.
The best part of this car is it is practically rust free and what rust there is is just surface rust. The frame rails, floor pans, trunk pan, window channels, inner quarter drop panels, I could go on and on are all in solid condition. I have a lot more pics, just ask if you want pics of a certain area as I took 125 pics and only have room for 12 in this listing. Would be an excellent candidate if you have a mostly complete R/T that is a rust bucket, just transfer parts. There are a couple of funky heavy steel brackets welded to the frame rails about where your feet would go if you were in the front seat, that will need to be removed, not sure why they are there, but I have pics, just ask.
Original 8-3/4" axle is present as are the original staggered leaf springs. The rear brakes are the correct 11" drums. The fronts are NOT original, I put 10" B body drums on just to roll the thing around as disc brakes were in the plan for racing but never happened. Front K member is original with the proper style idler arm. Power steering was original, although I was going to change that to manual but never did. The steering box will need a rebuild as it is a bit gritty in feel. Torsion bars are original.
The sheet metal is also in rust free condition. Years ago I had the Hood, Doors and Fenders dipped and shot immediately after with DP-90 to preserve them and that DP coating is still in excellent condition. There are a few dings and dents in the doors and fenders, but overall, they are what you would pay top dollar for anywhere, they are that good. The Hood is in very nice shape outside and inside, however it is NOT the original R/T hood, it is just a standard Coronet hood with no holes for the fake scoop. Sold the original hood many years ago, I was going to go with a fiberglass 6 pak hood, never did though. The quarters, roof, firewall, inner fenders, rockers, tail panel, etc. etc. etc. are all solid with nothing more than some surface rust here and there. Like I said, just ask for more pics, I can send 5 at a time I think through Ebay"s message system. The left quarter panel has a pretty good lateral dent, but since it is so solid, I would not replace it, just pull the dent. There are other small dings and dents in the quarters, but again, they are so solid.
I guess I should have said that this car has spent the last 30+ years either in a storage unit, my shop or my garage, so in that time it has always been undercover and since it is just mostly sheetmetal and steel, no rodents have even bothered with it.
The roof is in excellent condition, nice and straight, just the paint is sunburned. About the only trim left on this car is the drip rail moldings, so those will be included as shown in pics. There are some extra holes in the fender aprons and the firewall that should be welded shut for a real restoration, not bad but thought it best to mention. There is also some minor damage at the very bottom of the radiator support (26" style) that does not affect it"s use, but could use a little work, again I have pics, just ask.
This was a automatic car with console (rear bracket still in place), bucket seat BLACK interior with manual windows and no AC of course. The exterior was that darker green Mopar color of the era, I have a really good pic of the under side of the deck lid that shows the original paint very well, just ask. The wheels are just some beater 14" wheels with the old bias ply tires on them, definitely NOT ROAD WORTHY, although they would be just fine for sitting on a trailer. Some things I do not remember as I am getting a little older, but I believe the power steering was original as were the manual drum brakes.
I am NOT including the fender tag or broadcast sheet because I CANNOT FIND THEM, although I had them years ago. 2 moves and 2 kids later, I can"t find crap in this house or in my shop. That being said, if I do find them, I promise to send them to the winning bidder, but ONLY IF I find them, which may not happen and most certainly won"t happen before the car is sold and picked up.
Sorry to have written a book on this, but I like to be thorough. Although I am sure I have forgotten something, so just message me with any questions or requests for pics.
I am not going to be responsible for any shipping arraignments, so that is up to you to figure out. $200 non-refundable Paypal payment is due within 48 hours and full Payment is due in 7 days via Certified bank check or Cash if picking up within 7 days. NO PAYPAL for the balance.
I am all the way up in the NW corner of the country, so shipping could get pricey for the mid-west or east coast, heck it"s pricey no matter what, that"s why I"m hoping for a fairly local buyer.
The most important part of this transaction IS COMMUNICATION. Please, if you are the winning bidder, make contact often to keep me in the loop as to all the details. I have no problem storing the car for a month after the auctions, anything longer and we will have to discuss options.
My price is my bottom line. I would consider selling less the fenders, doors, hood, deck lid, rear axle assembly or some combination of all or some of these items. I would listen to offers minus some parts and go from there.
I have a Washington State clean title in MY NAME, so no problems there.