97 DC2 Acura Honda Integra RS, LS Vtec Turbo intercooled B16 B18C1 HKS Hondata

Sale price: US $3,500.00 Make an Offer

Condition: Used Year: 1997
VIN : JH4DC4341VS006902 Mileage: 194560
Model: Integra Make: Acura
Vehicle Title: Clean

Homestead, Florida, United States

Vehicle description

PLEASE READ THIS WHOLE LISTING BEFORE BIDDING. . Myself and the car are currently in south Florida Miami Dade County 33034, however the car has a Connecticut Title as when I moved down here I have not registered it. This first paragraph describes what I have done to the car and what extras the car will come with between $3500-$5999, the second paragraph and last 3 pictures are extras I will include if the vehicle reaches $6000 plus. I purchased the car @ 4 years ago, put it on the lift ad went through anything that needed replacement, wheel bearings, control arms, ball joints. Assembled an LS-Vtec engine using a golden eagle LS-Vtec kit, arp head studs, fitted with what I believe is a black sheep B16 hydro tranny is as close as I could find looking online and would make sense who I got it from. Slowly added gauges new tires other components working tword turbocharging the car. Inside Autometer Cobalt LED mechanical oil pressure and boost gauges, AEM X-series-UEGO 30-0300 wide band gauge kit, skunk 2 short throw shifter and knob (recently new bushings, Integra GS-R tach goes to 8000rpm redline, squired a pair of EM3 civic si seats and fabricated brackets so they bolt right up and sit at a decent height. The MOMO steering wheel have always hated came with the car in it’s lighter modified state, along with Sony Xplode head unite, I got some new RF component set in front and 2 way speakers in back. Stripped a decent amount of interior as the previous owner had some ugly red cloth glued and stitched here and there. I mounted a fuse box infront of the shifter That holds @ 10 fuses and has ground bar, ran 8-10 gauge wire off the battery and connected to a relay that powers the fuse box when vehicle is turned on. I run my gauges off it, a 12v power receptacle, fan switch and still have empty slots for accessories. 2.5” SS cat back exhaust, test pipe, bought a Flowmaster muffler to replace the tin can that came with the piping, also welded up a bolt on baffle to keep exhaust quiet for everyday use as that was my goal for the car. If at track or wanted to really get on it 2 nuts removes the baffle to help spool that turbo quicker. Also car came with Raceland coil overs front and rear strut bars, was lowered way to low so bought or replaced camber correction front and rear control arms. And raised it back up, to speed this up just gonna list under the hood what is the current set up. . B18B1 block, B18C1 head according to compression calculator I found online makes 10.2:1 compression, Blox intake manifold, old school HKS bov I found new and fitted to kit, CX racing journal bearing A/R.60 T3/T4 turbo, cast manifold, waste gate and 30”x9”x3” thick bar and plate intercooler. Homemade oil catch Tig welded alum box with SS steel wool inside, drain and breather. Hasport engine mounts, Exeddy stage 2 clutch kit, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator 1:1 rising rate with boost, DSM 450cc fuel injectors, with new and I believe extra O-rings. Homemade soldered harness for injector plugs, plus resistor box, have extra tool/plug so u can plug factory harness back in if desired, GM style Omni power MAP sensor good for 4 Bar (needs 3 wires connected and homemade adaptor plate, have a new Beck/Arnley knock sensor that needs to be installed, car also needs a new battery if I can’t scrounge one up before hand. Most oil/fuel lines are SS braided and connected using AN fittings, oil drain bung is Tig welded on inside of oil pan with SS wire. Bosch cap and rotor, NGK wires and colder plugs were added along with turbo. Oil dipstick was bent under turbo manifold and welded a Honda intake valve on end, gates water pump and T belt kit done @ 10k miles ago, also made aluminum T-belt cover as the LS and Vtec do not match up. Everything pictured in first 15 pics comes with car, unfortunately spring time last year after driving the car almost all winter with rally tires I broke a ball joint backing out of parking spot. So bought 2 new Moog, lower front control arms, ball joints and inner tie rod ends, I replaced the driver side arm and ball joint after it broke, but pass side as well as the inner tie rod ends still need replacement. I have them just haven’t had the time, plz look at pic of driver side fender as when ball joint broke it pushed fender up and out a bit. Also have a new front bumper, lower front lip, honeycomb steel mesh to protect/hide intercooler, 2 cooling fans, front inner fender liners, couple oil filters, all red other than reverse taillights, I believe most of a wire harness used for plugs and or sockets, extra CPS, anything pictured on hood or to side of car other than battery which won’t fit. . so that is where we stand if car sells $3500-5999 oh and a almost new hondata S300 w/usb cable mated by HAMOTORSPORTS.com to an obd1 P72 (GSR Ecu). I daily drove this car for several years turbocharged without any issues with the higher compression of LS-Vtec always ran 8psi of boost off the wastegate and pushed @ 250hp having tuner keep it on the safe side. Also have a waterproof/weather proof cover for car. . . .
Now if the bidding reaches $6000 I am offing the rest of my collection of Honda Parts, everything pictured in last 3 pics there is a B20 block on the engine stand, spun a rod bearing so not sure what else is good, crank was beat, saved pistons, rods main caps and other components in box behind it, oil pan, oil pick up hardware etc. . however I also have another B18B block with just head. Removed crank and lower end is good and from what I know other than pistons is the same as B20, have a P-72 refurbished vtec head just needs a fresh bottom end and you can push the car further than I have, ARP head studs, Felpro top end gasket set, 25’ of 2” wide black DEI exhaust/pipe wrap hi heat with metal ties, 3 ECU. . stock obd2 RS, stock obd2 GSR, and a chipped/socketed JDM B16 GSR obd1. . extra new spark plugs of different heat ranges, extra turbo fitting gaskets and O-rings, extra downpipe flange, 8 silicone couplers, 2 elbows, 1 S. . @ 15 turbo pipe clamps, prob enough alum charge pipe to set up another car, new K&N cone filter, 3 different Heat range T stats and extra gaskets 160, 170,180 whole bunch of Random AN fittings and pipe fitting for oil some SS hose for fittings, turbo drain flanges for rubber tubing, oil pan side and turbo oil drain good for @ 3/4” ID tube, risers for rear of hood if car gets hot, I never had an issue it came with them, new clutch master cyl, as I replaced slave cyl a few years back, SS braided tubing to go from clutch master to slave cyl new, random exhaust gaskets, extra used purge valve charcoal canister, Hondata 4 port electric boost control, works with hondata to control boost at each rpm in each gear, single alum crank pulley by VMS racing, unorthodox racing light pulley for alternator, nice switches for panel I never made for push button start, bochatec round SS bezel push button with blue LED ring, extra cable to relocate battery anywhere in car, a SS header for B18c1, CX racing bov, oil filter sand which, amber LED strip lights 12” long x2 was going to replace front blinker random hardware, bags of new plastic push pin fasteners the engine stand in pic is included and more. . . . .
A $500 deposit is due upon auction ending, and full payment due within 1 week. No shipping, but will pack everything up if buyer arranges pick up if you have any questions or would like to see the car plz contact me. I purchased/installed the best power stop brake pads and drilled/slotted rotors that rock auto sells shortly before ball joint broke and I ran out of time to work on it. I’m sure there is more I’m forgetting but in the end took good care of car and maintained very well. . Also hood and front bumper were as they are when I purchased car, focused mostly on performance rather than looks, carbon fiber hood was cracked and fades quickly, was planning on putting new bumper on and fiberglass Hood or just get steel one so car was all one color, sorry in pics the red paint is dusty from being kept in shop, wanted to post ASAP and didn’t have time to wash yet