Ford Explorer XLT 4.0L (2004)
Sale price: US $500.00 Make an Offer
| Condition: | Used | Year: | 2004 |
| VIN : | 1FMZU73KX4UB40018 | Mileage: | 133737 |
| Model: | Explorer | Engine: | 4.0L Flexible V6 |
| Make: | Ford | Number of Cylinders: | 6 |
| Disability Equipped: | No | Transmission: | Automatic |
| Drive Side: | Left-hand drive | For Sale By: | Private Seller |
| Power Options: | Power Windows, Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, Power Locks, Power Seats | Fuel Type: | Gasoline |
| Interior Color: | Tan | Warranty: | Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty |
| Drive Type: | 4WD | Exterior Color: | Sand |
| Sub Model: | XLT | Trim: | Leather |
| Vehicle Title: | Clean | Options: | CD Player, Sunroof, 4-Wheel Drive, Cassette Player, Leather Seats |
| Safety Features: | Anti-Lock Brakes, Driver Airbag, Passenger Airbag | Body Type: | SUV |
Middletown, New Jersey, United States
Vehicle description
2004 Ford Explorer XLT, 4.0L V6 - (Odometer Reading: 133737) - Non-smoking vehicle. - Leather seats and trim. - Ice cold AC. - It does have "3rd Row Seats," which are currently folded down. - This vehicle has NEVER been used "off road." That is also true of the previous owner who was a PA State Police Officer. This was his personal vehicle, which he drove to work every day. Also, there are no emissions or any other codes. (i.e. _No_ "Service Engine" light issues).
During the past ten years, the "Service Engine" light only came on once, about 2 years ago. I had to replace the EGR valve (which is a good thing for you because it is a $300 labor job). This truck has never failed inspection.
* * The following is a genuinely HONEST advertisement. I am spiritually incapable of "ripping you off." I NEED for you to be both informed _and_ satisfied with this purchase. The section at the bottom (titled "Terms Of Sale") explains how I intend to do that for you.
* * * (PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE AD BEFORE PLACING A BID) * * *
Mechanic owned and maintained; and driven daily by my wife. Purchased used in 2011 at a dealership, with 73,000 miles on the odometer. The transmission was rebuilt under warranty shortly after purchase. Then, about 5 years ago, the transmission began slipping ONLY DURING COLD WEATHER (usually at about 40 degrees and below). Ford cannot figure it out because it works perfectly once it reaches operating temperature. Last year they did a complete flush. There was no danger in doing a flush because the fluid was clean from the rebuild in 2011. There was no improvement, nor has it gotten any worse. (They literally told me to "just drive it and don"t worry about it, because it"s shifts correctly at operating temperature." They said "When the transmission slips _at_ operating temperature, that is when you need to worry about it").
* * (BOTTOM LINE): Although the transmission slips when its cold outside, it never fails to operate correctly after the engine reaches operating temperature. This issue has been _very_ consistent, without getting worse, going on 5 years now. BECAUSE of that fact, I spent over $3000 dollars LAST YEAR (just on parts. . all my labor), replacing the entire rear differential (it had a bad pinion bearing), new backing plates, emergency brakes, all disc brakes and all rotors, front and rear; plus 4 new tires (see photos), and a complete 4 wheel alignment. Basically, in the rear, EVERYTHING except the transaxles have been replaced. The rear transaxles, including the boots, were perfectly fine for re-installation as they were. Also, the rear calipers were replaced a few years ago, and the front calipers were reconditioned as part of the complete brake job I did last year.
* * (WHAT IT NEEDS): The muffler is probably leaking enough (at the "seams") to fail inspection. (It makes a "puff, puff, puff" noise which a good mechanic would recognize as a muffler leak). It would be easiest (truly easiest) to replace the entire exhaust system. The manifold bolts are not at all rusted (which is amazing), and they are remarkably easy to get at. (I will show you how and where to easily access the 2 Manifold Nuts on each side). You can buy the _entire_ exhaust system at RockAuto for less than $600 dollars. (Yes, LESS THAN $600). The cheapest dual catalyst "Y" pipe they sell happens to be the only _correct_ one they sell for this vehicle, and it"s priced under $400. The other, more expensive "Y Pipes" they sell have a "3rd converter" which this model does not use. So, the least expensive "Y Pipe" they sell is also the only _correct_ "Y Pipe" they sell). The rest of the entire exhaust system (behind the "Y Pipe"), is roughly $200.
* * (ADDITIONAL WORK NEEDED): Other than the above, there are only three other issues; none of which needs to be done right away. .
1) The FRONT transaxles have had their _outer_ boots replaced with "quick-boots." That is a VERY _temporary_ type of repair. You will need to replace the front transaxles, or simply remove them and install new boots onto them. Make sure you have the transaxle output shaft "seals" replaced (where the axles enter the output shafts), before re-installing the transaxles. (Warning: "Lazy" mechanics WILL NOT replace those seals unless you specifically instruct the mechanic to do so. Please remember this fact because it is very important to replace those seals at mileage above 100,000).
2) We have never used the "4 Wheel Low" switch, and for that reason, it no longer works. 99% of the time it is simply a "dead spot" (due to non-use) on the little actuator motor that does the "4 Wheel High/Low" switching, which is located (EXTERNALLY MOUNTED) at the Power Transfer Case. The "dead spot" is the spot it has been sitting at for too long. I can show you how to _easily_ remove it and solve the "dead spot" issue. The worse case scenario is that you will need a new actuator motor. (Even a "non-mechanic" can easily do this job. I will show you precisely where it is, and explain what needs to be done. OR. . YOU CAN SIMPLY LEAVE IT IN "4 WHEEL AUTO" WHERE IT HAS BEEN SET AT FOR THE PAST DECADE. . The 4 Wheel Drive system works perfectly at its current "AUTO" setting).
3) The alternator is a recent "rebuild" replacement. It has begun "whining" when cold. Before I figured that out, I had followed Ford"s Technical Book advice, and I replaced EVERYTHING wearable in the Serpentine system, which did not solve the problem. The "whine" turned out to be a defective bearing in that rebuilt alternator, which I finally confirmed via Stethoscope. It has been "whining" for two years without getting worse. (In fact, it has gotten quieter lately). Nevertheless, you should plan on eventually replacing the alternator. You can wait until the "whine" turns into a "scream" BUT at that point you MUST replace it _immediately_.
* * (TERMS OF SALE): Vehicle is sold "as is." After the auction ends, regardless of final sale price amount, a deposit of $500 must be paid via PayPal within 48 hours of the close of the auction. Otherwise, I reserve the right to relist the vehicle. The $500 deposit (even if that amount is the full sale price) is NOT refundable, WITH ONE SINGLE EXCEPTION. . which I am offering as a matter of fairness, as follows:
You have one week to come pick up the truck; (give or take a couple of days). After paying the PayPal deposit of $500, you must make an appointment with me to come here. If you actually keep your appointment, and after personally checking out the vehicle, if you _THEN_ decide you do not want to buy it, I will _THEN_ agree to allow you to request cancellation via ebay, which I will approve and process a full refund.
"No Show" = "Loss of Deposit" (* No Exceptions* ) By bidding on this auction, you agree to the terms of this sale.
* * This really is an honest sale, in the sense that you will not have to "find problems the hard way." I WILL PERSONALLY POINT THEM OUT TO YOU! ! When you arrive, I will spend as much time as you wish going over the entire vehicle. (I know every little "service trick" there is to know about these trucks, and I"d be happy to share it all with you).
Lastly, I am selling this vehicle because my wife can no longer wait 20 minutes (in the middle of the Winter) for the engine to warm up so the transmission will shift correctly. She"s been doing that for 5 years, and now with the pandemic (she works medical), SHE HAS TO BE THERE ON TIME, and sometimes she is called in to work with no time to spare. So. . now I"m making new car payments again, and you get to buy the truck that I just dropped a ton of work and money into.
In my opinion, as a mechanic with 45 years experience, given all the work and serious money put into this truck, including over $3000 dollars worth of parts just one year ago, I truly believe this truck is worth the cost of replacing the wearable _maintenance_ items it needs to pass inspection, Plus, it"s in pretty nice shape, as can be seen in the photos.
During the past ten years, the "Service Engine" light only came on once, about 2 years ago. I had to replace the EGR valve (which is a good thing for you because it is a $300 labor job). This truck has never failed inspection.
* * The following is a genuinely HONEST advertisement. I am spiritually incapable of "ripping you off." I NEED for you to be both informed _and_ satisfied with this purchase. The section at the bottom (titled "Terms Of Sale") explains how I intend to do that for you.
* * * (PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE AD BEFORE PLACING A BID) * * *
Mechanic owned and maintained; and driven daily by my wife. Purchased used in 2011 at a dealership, with 73,000 miles on the odometer. The transmission was rebuilt under warranty shortly after purchase. Then, about 5 years ago, the transmission began slipping ONLY DURING COLD WEATHER (usually at about 40 degrees and below). Ford cannot figure it out because it works perfectly once it reaches operating temperature. Last year they did a complete flush. There was no danger in doing a flush because the fluid was clean from the rebuild in 2011. There was no improvement, nor has it gotten any worse. (They literally told me to "just drive it and don"t worry about it, because it"s shifts correctly at operating temperature." They said "When the transmission slips _at_ operating temperature, that is when you need to worry about it").
* * (BOTTOM LINE): Although the transmission slips when its cold outside, it never fails to operate correctly after the engine reaches operating temperature. This issue has been _very_ consistent, without getting worse, going on 5 years now. BECAUSE of that fact, I spent over $3000 dollars LAST YEAR (just on parts. . all my labor), replacing the entire rear differential (it had a bad pinion bearing), new backing plates, emergency brakes, all disc brakes and all rotors, front and rear; plus 4 new tires (see photos), and a complete 4 wheel alignment. Basically, in the rear, EVERYTHING except the transaxles have been replaced. The rear transaxles, including the boots, were perfectly fine for re-installation as they were. Also, the rear calipers were replaced a few years ago, and the front calipers were reconditioned as part of the complete brake job I did last year.
* * (WHAT IT NEEDS): The muffler is probably leaking enough (at the "seams") to fail inspection. (It makes a "puff, puff, puff" noise which a good mechanic would recognize as a muffler leak). It would be easiest (truly easiest) to replace the entire exhaust system. The manifold bolts are not at all rusted (which is amazing), and they are remarkably easy to get at. (I will show you how and where to easily access the 2 Manifold Nuts on each side). You can buy the _entire_ exhaust system at RockAuto for less than $600 dollars. (Yes, LESS THAN $600). The cheapest dual catalyst "Y" pipe they sell happens to be the only _correct_ one they sell for this vehicle, and it"s priced under $400. The other, more expensive "Y Pipes" they sell have a "3rd converter" which this model does not use. So, the least expensive "Y Pipe" they sell is also the only _correct_ "Y Pipe" they sell). The rest of the entire exhaust system (behind the "Y Pipe"), is roughly $200.
* * (ADDITIONAL WORK NEEDED): Other than the above, there are only three other issues; none of which needs to be done right away. .
1) The FRONT transaxles have had their _outer_ boots replaced with "quick-boots." That is a VERY _temporary_ type of repair. You will need to replace the front transaxles, or simply remove them and install new boots onto them. Make sure you have the transaxle output shaft "seals" replaced (where the axles enter the output shafts), before re-installing the transaxles. (Warning: "Lazy" mechanics WILL NOT replace those seals unless you specifically instruct the mechanic to do so. Please remember this fact because it is very important to replace those seals at mileage above 100,000).
2) We have never used the "4 Wheel Low" switch, and for that reason, it no longer works. 99% of the time it is simply a "dead spot" (due to non-use) on the little actuator motor that does the "4 Wheel High/Low" switching, which is located (EXTERNALLY MOUNTED) at the Power Transfer Case. The "dead spot" is the spot it has been sitting at for too long. I can show you how to _easily_ remove it and solve the "dead spot" issue. The worse case scenario is that you will need a new actuator motor. (Even a "non-mechanic" can easily do this job. I will show you precisely where it is, and explain what needs to be done. OR. . YOU CAN SIMPLY LEAVE IT IN "4 WHEEL AUTO" WHERE IT HAS BEEN SET AT FOR THE PAST DECADE. . The 4 Wheel Drive system works perfectly at its current "AUTO" setting).
3) The alternator is a recent "rebuild" replacement. It has begun "whining" when cold. Before I figured that out, I had followed Ford"s Technical Book advice, and I replaced EVERYTHING wearable in the Serpentine system, which did not solve the problem. The "whine" turned out to be a defective bearing in that rebuilt alternator, which I finally confirmed via Stethoscope. It has been "whining" for two years without getting worse. (In fact, it has gotten quieter lately). Nevertheless, you should plan on eventually replacing the alternator. You can wait until the "whine" turns into a "scream" BUT at that point you MUST replace it _immediately_.
* * (TERMS OF SALE): Vehicle is sold "as is." After the auction ends, regardless of final sale price amount, a deposit of $500 must be paid via PayPal within 48 hours of the close of the auction. Otherwise, I reserve the right to relist the vehicle. The $500 deposit (even if that amount is the full sale price) is NOT refundable, WITH ONE SINGLE EXCEPTION. . which I am offering as a matter of fairness, as follows:
You have one week to come pick up the truck; (give or take a couple of days). After paying the PayPal deposit of $500, you must make an appointment with me to come here. If you actually keep your appointment, and after personally checking out the vehicle, if you _THEN_ decide you do not want to buy it, I will _THEN_ agree to allow you to request cancellation via ebay, which I will approve and process a full refund.
"No Show" = "Loss of Deposit" (* No Exceptions* ) By bidding on this auction, you agree to the terms of this sale.
* * This really is an honest sale, in the sense that you will not have to "find problems the hard way." I WILL PERSONALLY POINT THEM OUT TO YOU! ! When you arrive, I will spend as much time as you wish going over the entire vehicle. (I know every little "service trick" there is to know about these trucks, and I"d be happy to share it all with you).
Lastly, I am selling this vehicle because my wife can no longer wait 20 minutes (in the middle of the Winter) for the engine to warm up so the transmission will shift correctly. She"s been doing that for 5 years, and now with the pandemic (she works medical), SHE HAS TO BE THERE ON TIME, and sometimes she is called in to work with no time to spare. So. . now I"m making new car payments again, and you get to buy the truck that I just dropped a ton of work and money into.
In my opinion, as a mechanic with 45 years experience, given all the work and serious money put into this truck, including over $3000 dollars worth of parts just one year ago, I truly believe this truck is worth the cost of replacing the wearable _maintenance_ items it needs to pass inspection, Plus, it"s in pretty nice shape, as can be seen in the photos.