Mazda RX-7 (1993)
Sale price: US $1,000.00 Make an Offer
Condition: | Used | Year: | 1993 |
VIN : | JM1FD3317P0205796 | Mileage: | 134500 |
Model: | RX-7 | Make: | Mazda |
Transmission: | Manual | Options: | CD Player, Sunroof, Leather Seats, Cassette Player |
Number of Cylinders: | 2 | Body Type: | Coupe |
Vehicle Title: | Clean |
Bakersfield, California, United States
Vehicle description
I have owned and loved this car for the past 21 years (second owner) but now, sadly, I must let it go as I will be moving overseas at the end of the year. The car has never been modified other than a few reliability mods, such as a very nice all aluminum radiator, a boost gauge, and a more accurate linear coolant temperature gauge. I also gutted the badly clogged pre-cat shortly after buying the car. The original engine had to be replaced back in 2006 with the current JDM unit and the drive train and engine internals are all still in great shape, including the turbos. Compression is also good with very uniform readings across the board. There are however some intermittent issues with the engine management system. For example, one minute I will get a normal boost pattern upon hard acceleration and the next minute I will not. Then later it will start working again. Also there is an intermittent idle problem. Sometimes it idles normally and the gage reads normal vacuum and other times the idle with not sound right and the vacuum will read a bit low. Since the problem is intermittent it has been difficult for me to get to the bottom of it. In any case, it does not affect the drive-ability of the car.
By the way, despite the South Carolina license plates and title this is actually a California car. I had to move out to SC a while back (drove the RX7 the whole way out there) and when I got back to California I never re-registered it here as I was rarely driving it at this point. The car has a clean title and the carfax is clean as well, other than one small accident. The damage was so unnoticeable from that accident however that I never even bothered having it fixed. Basically a drunk driver abruptly swerved into my lane and his rear bumper clipped my front bumper. As for the factory Vintage Red paint job it is still in remarkably good condition considering that it’s nearly 30 years old now. That is, with the exception of the rear bumper. For some strange reason the clear coat started peeling off the rear bumper over 15 years ago. Speaking of peeling, the chrome coating on the wheels is also flaking off in spots. I never liked the chrome to begin with but that’s just how the car came. On the upside the tires are pretty much brand new with less than 200 miles on them. There is one very small rust spot on the car, which you can see in the photo. This developed due to the fact that water gets trapped under one of the rear wing mounting points. As for the interior its in pretty good shape with the exception of the drivers seat which has seen better days and which just got its first rip a few weeks ago (see photo).
Anyway, if you live in Southern California I would highly recommend that you come by and look at the car in person before bidding. I will do my best to describe any and all known issues with the car but there is really no substitute for seeing a car in person and listening to it run.
Below is a full list of additional known issues with the car so please consider the cost of these repairs when bidding.
AC not working due to a freon leak. Power antenna not working. Driver side headlight hangs up when retracting. Driver side window difficult to put down (no problem going up) likely due to a bad switch. Needs new pillow balls in the rear suspension, although I actually have a brand new full set ($500 worth) which will be included with the car. They just need to be installed. ABS pump motor started staying on even with the ignition off so I had to unplug it so as to not drain the battery until the problem is fixed. The brakes still work fine of course, there is just no ABS for now. Factory theft alarm system currently not working. Speedometer and tachometer went out a few weeks ago when I had to jump-start the car after letting it sit for too long. The display for the odometer has been out for years but when it mysteriously came on again last year for about ten minutes the mileage read 134K and change. It has been driven less than 100 miles since then. Just to be clear, even though the display is out the odometer has still been keeping track of the actual mileage. Of course this may no longer be the case now that the speedometer has gone out as well. The Bose CD player and tape deck have not worked for many years but since I installed a MP3 player jack 15 years ago I have never seen any reason to fix these items. The speakers all work but one of the front amps may need to be repaired or replaced. The car may need a new wiring harness. Back up lights do not come on. Plastic underpan is missing. Rear window tint is puckering and will have to be removed. Heater does not get as hot as it should due to the heater core being clogged.
Lastly, you will have to be responsible for getting the car smogged, and if you live in a city in California which requires the “enhanced” smog check on ODB-1 vehicles you may need to get a new intake manifold and EGR valve in order to pass. The car has never failed a smog check in the past, but then again I was living in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo where the enhanced smog checks were not required. I was originally going to hold off on the sale until I could get the smog check myself - as I always do when selling a car here in California - but when I went to the DMV the other day to ask about any possible issues with selling a California car with an out of state title I was told flat out that I did not need to get a smog check before the sale of this vehicle. Just in case this particular DMV clerk does not know what she is talking about however, the winning bidder will still need to sign a statement stating that he (or she) will be responsible for getting the car smogged and for all related expenses that this may entail. Furthermore, since the SC registration expired last year you will obviously need to bring a trailer to pick up the car.
By the way, despite the South Carolina license plates and title this is actually a California car. I had to move out to SC a while back (drove the RX7 the whole way out there) and when I got back to California I never re-registered it here as I was rarely driving it at this point. The car has a clean title and the carfax is clean as well, other than one small accident. The damage was so unnoticeable from that accident however that I never even bothered having it fixed. Basically a drunk driver abruptly swerved into my lane and his rear bumper clipped my front bumper. As for the factory Vintage Red paint job it is still in remarkably good condition considering that it’s nearly 30 years old now. That is, with the exception of the rear bumper. For some strange reason the clear coat started peeling off the rear bumper over 15 years ago. Speaking of peeling, the chrome coating on the wheels is also flaking off in spots. I never liked the chrome to begin with but that’s just how the car came. On the upside the tires are pretty much brand new with less than 200 miles on them. There is one very small rust spot on the car, which you can see in the photo. This developed due to the fact that water gets trapped under one of the rear wing mounting points. As for the interior its in pretty good shape with the exception of the drivers seat which has seen better days and which just got its first rip a few weeks ago (see photo).
Anyway, if you live in Southern California I would highly recommend that you come by and look at the car in person before bidding. I will do my best to describe any and all known issues with the car but there is really no substitute for seeing a car in person and listening to it run.
Below is a full list of additional known issues with the car so please consider the cost of these repairs when bidding.
AC not working due to a freon leak. Power antenna not working. Driver side headlight hangs up when retracting. Driver side window difficult to put down (no problem going up) likely due to a bad switch. Needs new pillow balls in the rear suspension, although I actually have a brand new full set ($500 worth) which will be included with the car. They just need to be installed. ABS pump motor started staying on even with the ignition off so I had to unplug it so as to not drain the battery until the problem is fixed. The brakes still work fine of course, there is just no ABS for now. Factory theft alarm system currently not working. Speedometer and tachometer went out a few weeks ago when I had to jump-start the car after letting it sit for too long. The display for the odometer has been out for years but when it mysteriously came on again last year for about ten minutes the mileage read 134K and change. It has been driven less than 100 miles since then. Just to be clear, even though the display is out the odometer has still been keeping track of the actual mileage. Of course this may no longer be the case now that the speedometer has gone out as well. The Bose CD player and tape deck have not worked for many years but since I installed a MP3 player jack 15 years ago I have never seen any reason to fix these items. The speakers all work but one of the front amps may need to be repaired or replaced. The car may need a new wiring harness. Back up lights do not come on. Plastic underpan is missing. Rear window tint is puckering and will have to be removed. Heater does not get as hot as it should due to the heater core being clogged.
Lastly, you will have to be responsible for getting the car smogged, and if you live in a city in California which requires the “enhanced” smog check on ODB-1 vehicles you may need to get a new intake manifold and EGR valve in order to pass. The car has never failed a smog check in the past, but then again I was living in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo where the enhanced smog checks were not required. I was originally going to hold off on the sale until I could get the smog check myself - as I always do when selling a car here in California - but when I went to the DMV the other day to ask about any possible issues with selling a California car with an out of state title I was told flat out that I did not need to get a smog check before the sale of this vehicle. Just in case this particular DMV clerk does not know what she is talking about however, the winning bidder will still need to sign a statement stating that he (or she) will be responsible for getting the car smogged and for all related expenses that this may entail. Furthermore, since the SC registration expired last year you will obviously need to bring a trailer to pick up the car.