Toyota Celica GT Liftback 65,000 miles RA29 20R (1976)
Sale price: US $7,600.00 Make an Offer
| Condition: | Used | Year: | 1976 |
| VIN : | RA29024573 | Mileage: | 65611 |
| Number of Cylinders: | 4 | Make: | Toyota |
| Transmission: | Manual | Model: | Celica |
| Body Type: | Fastback | Trim: | GT |
| Warranty: | Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty | Engine: | 20R |
| Vehicle Title: | Clean | Drive Type: | RWD |
| Power Options: | Air Conditioning | Fuel Type: | Gasoline |
| Sub Model: | Liftback | For Sale By: | Private Seller |
| Exterior Color: | Red | Disability Equipped: | No |
| Interior Color: | Tan | Drive Side: | Left-hand drive |
Bainbridge Island, Washington, United States
Vehicle description
1976 Toyota Celica GT Liftback RA29
65,611 original miles
2.2L inline 4-cylinder 20R engine 5-speed manual transmission Red exterior, cream & brown interior Original owner purchased the car new in 1976, and drove the first 65,000 miles. Garaged and cared for at the same address in Colorado until 2015, when I brought her to Washington State. Starts. Goes. Stops. Other than the 2 dents I mentioned, rock chips and the few issues below, the body metal is straights and smooth. No body work has been done except for a hood hinge repair. (no hidden Bondo) Original paint, orange peal and immaculate kick panel GT stripes. Lights, buttons, switches, doodads and clocks all work. Clean title, registered and insured in Washington State. Local pickup only in Washington State.
And now for something completely different…
Hey! I’m decently nervous about selling my car on eBay. I love people. I love cars. I’ve accepted that she needs a new home. But it’s still a bit tough. So, I’m going to write the ad that I wish I’d found when I was began my Celica search years ago.
I’m going to make some assumptions about you, and if I’m right, hopefully it will help make this as painless as handing over thousands of dollars or your dream car might be. I am writing this ad for the person who will drive and love this Celica. You’re already in love with these cars; I don’t need to convince you they’re cool. You’ve done some price checking homework, maybe you’ve even been on this search for years, as I was. They used to be cheap, but now it’s $5,000 for a Celica that runs or a body that’s straight. $9,000 for a solid car. $13,000 for something cherry. And then the auction houses are looking for $40,000… And JDM parts? Now we’re talking real money. Bit by bit the clean specimens are modified or chopped away. Lastly, I hope that you have been looking for a diamond in the rough, a barn-find, something left untouched for restoration, or a solid start for a tuner project. Overnight parts from Japan, you know. Something that would get you the most car for your money, in the places that matter to you.
In 2015, I stumbled upon a listing in Colorado. A quick road trip later was the giddy owner of a 1976 Celica GT Liftback in pristine condition.
Fast forward to 2017, our family suffered a few tragedies and medical issues. With my priorities straight, the Celica sat undriven in the garage, and then spent the last year at various shops. The neglect resulted in oxidation and superficial rust, and the components generally falling out of harmony. She needs some TLC to be bright as new, and a new caretaker to carry the torch. Er, keys.
Decide how much this car would be worth, to you, if everything was just the way you wanted it. Then adjust the amount to reflect all the detailing and repairing that I didn’t do. Look for a number that makes you feel all warm and fuzzy.
See pictures - I tried to capture all the worst stuff. If it isn"t pictured, it"s in good shape as far as I know. (general oxidation aside)
Issues that existed when I purchased the car: Dent on front right wheel arch, metal exposed. Dent on rear right corner bumper surround. Decent crack in windshield, maybe 18” long. Large chip in windshield, upper right (passenger side) corner. Curb shaped dents in fuel tank One hood hinge had deformed and in turn bent the inner right headlight trim slightly at the top. Small rock chips down to primer on hood, various small chips and scratches elsewhere exposing specs of primer. Driver’s footwell rubber heel mat has separated from carpet along left edge. 2 small worn areas through carpet in passenger footwell. 1-inch tear at the bottom of the passenger seat back. Clip on mirror on right sun visor created a rust mark, not sure if it’s permanent. I saw one wire nut on an electrical connection, but everything else looked original inside and out. Bug screen in front of radiator. General wear and scratches on the black painted metal seat components. Deterioration around edges of rear-view mirror reflective surface. Cosmetic. Things I’ve noticed after recent work was done: There was some good oily grime flying around the engine at some point, and there’s buildup around and below the engine on the block and chassis that should get cleaned. A handful of tape labels are on the vacuum lines. Battery terminal wires need to be adjusted to fit the rubber cap back on the + post. The engine bay needs tidying, making sure wires and hoses are in good condition. The idler pulley adjustment bolt was missing. Replaced with spec bolt, but not OEM. The repaired hood hinge works, with a functional hood prop that prevents the hood from slamming in the wind. The factory hood prop was removed and appears to have 3 out of 4 bolts, but it was my intent to reinstall it along with a replacement set of hinges I bought that need to be paint matched. Rust on the undercarriage. Oxidation on various metal components and fasteners. Headliner sagged in the heat. 3M headliner adhesive included. Intermittent issues that I haven’t resolved (might happen every few drives or weeks) Engine bogs down on hills, lifting off throttle gets it back but it’s no fun. Blue black smoke at startup, soot build up on spark plugs after a few weeks. New/clean plugs resolve. Harmonic hum arises while driving, tapping the brakes breaks it up. Brake pedal doesn’t return after heavy, prolonged downhill braking, resulting in the brake lights staying on. Windshield wipers are either missing a clip or don’t fit to my satisfaction. I installed them, probably operator error. A wheel center cap is missing. I managed to purchase 4 other 1970’s Toyota wheel center caps, but none match. Good luck. I would find a way to lock them on. The window roller assemblies bind a little sometimes, need some love.
Payment Terms: Accepted payments: Cash or certified check. Payment due in full within 7 days of auction close. The vehicle can be inspected at any local mechanic within my city at the buyers expense, to be completed before close of sale.
Notes: The hood stays open fine but wouldn’t trust it in a windstorm. The liftback hydraulics work like a charm, it surprises me every time. Goodies:
Owner’s manual and proof of purchase card Registration for each year from 1976 to 2014 Donor hood hinge set. 3 ignition keys, 3 door keys Fabric car cover Haynes, Chilton’s and Toyota engine and chassis manuals. Import Car of the Year Motor Trend Magazine 1976. A couple cool framed Celica ads. 4 well-worn tan rubber floor mats. 4 wheel-center caps that don’t fit.
65,611 original miles
2.2L inline 4-cylinder 20R engine 5-speed manual transmission Red exterior, cream & brown interior Original owner purchased the car new in 1976, and drove the first 65,000 miles. Garaged and cared for at the same address in Colorado until 2015, when I brought her to Washington State. Starts. Goes. Stops. Other than the 2 dents I mentioned, rock chips and the few issues below, the body metal is straights and smooth. No body work has been done except for a hood hinge repair. (no hidden Bondo) Original paint, orange peal and immaculate kick panel GT stripes. Lights, buttons, switches, doodads and clocks all work. Clean title, registered and insured in Washington State. Local pickup only in Washington State.
And now for something completely different…
Hey! I’m decently nervous about selling my car on eBay. I love people. I love cars. I’ve accepted that she needs a new home. But it’s still a bit tough. So, I’m going to write the ad that I wish I’d found when I was began my Celica search years ago.
I’m going to make some assumptions about you, and if I’m right, hopefully it will help make this as painless as handing over thousands of dollars or your dream car might be. I am writing this ad for the person who will drive and love this Celica. You’re already in love with these cars; I don’t need to convince you they’re cool. You’ve done some price checking homework, maybe you’ve even been on this search for years, as I was. They used to be cheap, but now it’s $5,000 for a Celica that runs or a body that’s straight. $9,000 for a solid car. $13,000 for something cherry. And then the auction houses are looking for $40,000… And JDM parts? Now we’re talking real money. Bit by bit the clean specimens are modified or chopped away. Lastly, I hope that you have been looking for a diamond in the rough, a barn-find, something left untouched for restoration, or a solid start for a tuner project. Overnight parts from Japan, you know. Something that would get you the most car for your money, in the places that matter to you.
In 2015, I stumbled upon a listing in Colorado. A quick road trip later was the giddy owner of a 1976 Celica GT Liftback in pristine condition.
Fast forward to 2017, our family suffered a few tragedies and medical issues. With my priorities straight, the Celica sat undriven in the garage, and then spent the last year at various shops. The neglect resulted in oxidation and superficial rust, and the components generally falling out of harmony. She needs some TLC to be bright as new, and a new caretaker to carry the torch. Er, keys.
Decide how much this car would be worth, to you, if everything was just the way you wanted it. Then adjust the amount to reflect all the detailing and repairing that I didn’t do. Look for a number that makes you feel all warm and fuzzy.
See pictures - I tried to capture all the worst stuff. If it isn"t pictured, it"s in good shape as far as I know. (general oxidation aside)
Issues that existed when I purchased the car: Dent on front right wheel arch, metal exposed. Dent on rear right corner bumper surround. Decent crack in windshield, maybe 18” long. Large chip in windshield, upper right (passenger side) corner. Curb shaped dents in fuel tank One hood hinge had deformed and in turn bent the inner right headlight trim slightly at the top. Small rock chips down to primer on hood, various small chips and scratches elsewhere exposing specs of primer. Driver’s footwell rubber heel mat has separated from carpet along left edge. 2 small worn areas through carpet in passenger footwell. 1-inch tear at the bottom of the passenger seat back. Clip on mirror on right sun visor created a rust mark, not sure if it’s permanent. I saw one wire nut on an electrical connection, but everything else looked original inside and out. Bug screen in front of radiator. General wear and scratches on the black painted metal seat components. Deterioration around edges of rear-view mirror reflective surface. Cosmetic. Things I’ve noticed after recent work was done: There was some good oily grime flying around the engine at some point, and there’s buildup around and below the engine on the block and chassis that should get cleaned. A handful of tape labels are on the vacuum lines. Battery terminal wires need to be adjusted to fit the rubber cap back on the + post. The engine bay needs tidying, making sure wires and hoses are in good condition. The idler pulley adjustment bolt was missing. Replaced with spec bolt, but not OEM. The repaired hood hinge works, with a functional hood prop that prevents the hood from slamming in the wind. The factory hood prop was removed and appears to have 3 out of 4 bolts, but it was my intent to reinstall it along with a replacement set of hinges I bought that need to be paint matched. Rust on the undercarriage. Oxidation on various metal components and fasteners. Headliner sagged in the heat. 3M headliner adhesive included. Intermittent issues that I haven’t resolved (might happen every few drives or weeks) Engine bogs down on hills, lifting off throttle gets it back but it’s no fun. Blue black smoke at startup, soot build up on spark plugs after a few weeks. New/clean plugs resolve. Harmonic hum arises while driving, tapping the brakes breaks it up. Brake pedal doesn’t return after heavy, prolonged downhill braking, resulting in the brake lights staying on. Windshield wipers are either missing a clip or don’t fit to my satisfaction. I installed them, probably operator error. A wheel center cap is missing. I managed to purchase 4 other 1970’s Toyota wheel center caps, but none match. Good luck. I would find a way to lock them on. The window roller assemblies bind a little sometimes, need some love.
Payment Terms: Accepted payments: Cash or certified check. Payment due in full within 7 days of auction close. The vehicle can be inspected at any local mechanic within my city at the buyers expense, to be completed before close of sale.
Notes: The hood stays open fine but wouldn’t trust it in a windstorm. The liftback hydraulics work like a charm, it surprises me every time. Goodies:
Owner’s manual and proof of purchase card Registration for each year from 1976 to 2014 Donor hood hinge set. 3 ignition keys, 3 door keys Fabric car cover Haynes, Chilton’s and Toyota engine and chassis manuals. Import Car of the Year Motor Trend Magazine 1976. A couple cool framed Celica ads. 4 well-worn tan rubber floor mats. 4 wheel-center caps that don’t fit.