Ford Bronco - Runs and Drives, NO RESERVE AUCTION!!! (1972)
Sale price: US $1.00 Make an Offer
| Condition: | Used | Year: | 1972 |
| VIN : | U15GLP89670 | Mileage: | 35749 |
| Model: | Bronco | Interior Color: | Black |
| Make: | Ford | Drive Type: | 4WD |
| Number of Cylinders: | 8 | Vehicle Title: | Clean |
| Exterior Color: | Copper | Transmission: | Manual |
San Antonio, Texas, United States
Vehicle description
NO RESERVE auction for a running and driving 1972 Ford Bronco! This would be a great one to restore while you drive! !
I bought the Bronco several months ago from a rural area west of San Antonio. It had been used at a hunting camp and it wasn"t running. I spent quite a bit of time sorting it out mechanically and my plans were to restore it. However, I just got word that I"m being transferred to the east coast in a few months and I need to sell it.
This is a U152 Bronco - the U15 is a wagon (the other model available in 1972 was the half cab), and the U152 is the heavy duty version, with better leaf springs and a higher GVWR.
The VIN and Warranty Tag data documents it as a 1972 Light Copper Metallic Bronco, 302, 3 speed manual, so it appears to be equipped as it was sold new. Ford did not stamp a VIN on the Bronco engines, so there"s really no such thing as a "numbers matching" early Bronco, but this one appears to have the original engine.
The VIN on the title, the VIN stamped on the frame (near the starter), and the VIN on the glovebox door Warranty Tag ALL MATCH! That"s actually a big deal, given how easy it is to swap a glovebox door, and given how often bodies and frames get swapped around.
The engine is a 302 with a 2bbl carburetor and points ignition. It runs good, and it is in good shape internally - I did a compression test and all the cylinders are within a few PSI of each other. It has new valve cover gaskets, plug wires, new cap and rotor, points and condensor, starter, and a fresh oil change and filter.
The truck was equipped with dual fuel tanks, but I removed the smaller tank and installed a good used rear tank. A lot of folks use a larger aftermarket rear tank that some of the Bronco aftermarket suppliers sell.
The transmission is a three speed manual on the column. I replaced the bushings in the shift linkage and it shifts fine. The clutch works fine.
The transfer case is a Dana 20. It works fine. Four wheel drive works, too.
The rear differential is a Ford 9" with 3.50 gears and a limited slip. I replaced the pinion seal, pinion nut, the axle seals, and the axle bearings.
The front differential is the desirable Dana 44. The earlier Broncos came with the weaker Dana 30. I replaced the wheel bearings in the front diff and disassembled, cleaned, and lubed the hub assemblies.
I installed new Spicer u joints in the rear driveshaft.
The wiring needs a bit of work. Right now, I"m hotwiring it to start it, using a jumper wire and a push-button starter hooked to the starter relay. The wiring appears to be all there, but someone will need to spend some time checking it out. Factory wiring diagrams are available, as are aftermarket wiring harnesses. The truck does have a new battery, new starter relay (NOS Motorcraft), and new large gauge aftermarket battery cables.
The frame is solid; it just has surface rust. The majority of these old Broncos have had the frame horns front and rear hacked for "custom" bumpers; this one was hacked in the rear, so I welded in a pair of replacement frame horns in the back. The front horns on this weren"t hacked.
It has a new windshield and weather stripping. Both doors have glass, too.
The suspension will need some new rubber bushings. I installed new Wild Horses 4x4 shocks front and rear a few months ago.
The truck has manual drum brakes. I installed a new master cylinder, new wheel cylinders, and new flex hoses all around. It stops fine now.
The wheels are 15 x 8; I am pretty sure they came from a later model Bronco. I sandblasted them down to bare metal and painted them with high quality wheel paint. I don"t have a spare tire, but I do have an extra 15 x 8 wheel for it.
The tires are older and don"t have a lot of tread; I would plan to replace them soon.
The front and rear seats are original early Bronco seats. The driver"s seat has new mounts and sliding seat latch. The floor brace under the seat was rusty, so I had to modify and cut a few areas to mount the seat.
This Bronco has the typical Bronco rust. Specifically, the top, which is also dented, has some rust through on the front edge. You can buy brand new reproduction tops for these, but I had planned to go with a soft top. The hood is actually in good shape, with only surface rust. The front floors are rusted through, but I have included new front floor pans. The floor in the rear will need patches or replacement panels. The rear wheelwells are rusted in areas where they meet the quarter panel. The driver"s side quarter can be used with some minor work. The passenger side quarter is crunched up a bit, but I have included a complete OEM quarter panel. The OEM quarter panel needs some work as well, but nothing major. The kick panels are rusted through on both sides and will need to be replaced. I would plan to replace both front fenders, but you could use them as-is for now, especially if you cut the lip and install fender flares. The inner rocker panels look like they can be used (one may need a patch) but I would plan to replace the outer rockers. The door posts and striker posts will need to be replaced; you might be able to save one. As you can see in the engine bay picture, the rear side of the engine compartment has a hole rusted through (both sides have this); this is a typical problem area and will be an easy to patch. The windshield frame is generally solid, but there"s at least one area with rust bubbles. The doors are in generally good shape but the driver"s side door will need a patch at the bottom. The passenger side door sticks shut, so you have to release it by pulling on the latch rod inside the door.
So, what"s the good news on the body? Well, it"s all original sheetmetal and paint. You"re MUCH better off buying one with all the sins of the past visible than you are buying one with shiny paint covering bondo over chicken wire! ! You"ll pay a lot more for one with shiny paint, and it will cost you a LOT more undoing and fixing someone"s hack job! ! More good news on the body - EVERYTHING is available via the aftermarket. You can either buy it piece by piece, or you can buy an entire body, all panels installed and gaps good to go. All you need to do is paint! A complete body will run you about $12,000 and there"s at least one company that uses the original Ford dies to stamp out the panels. Given what these trucks are bringing these days (well over $50,000 for a nicely restored one and over $100,000 for a high quality resto-mod), spending $12,000 to have a minty brand new body isn"t a bad idea.
Another option would be to find a donor body - these run about $2,500 or so for a good one. The nice thing about buying a donor body is that the official VIN is stamped on the frame, so you wouldn"t have to do anything shady when swapping a more solid body onto this frame, since the frame has the official VIN stamp and you have the title for the frame.
The Bronco comes with a bunch of spare parts. As you can see in the pictures, it comes with a tailgate, front floor pans, and a passenger rear quarter panel. There are also a few boxes of parts including complete electric wiper setup (used OEM), tailgate hardware, etc.
I have a Texas title, in my name. Again, it matches the Warranty Tag and frame VIN stamp. It is a bonded title, which just means that the title was lost at some point, and I had to apply for a new title and pay a bond. The title looks just like a regular Texas title; it"s just annotated that it"s a bonded title. The bond is removed 3 years after I paid the bond.
I prefer a wire transfer for payment.
I can assist with loading if you"re going to have the vehicle picked up.
I bought the Bronco several months ago from a rural area west of San Antonio. It had been used at a hunting camp and it wasn"t running. I spent quite a bit of time sorting it out mechanically and my plans were to restore it. However, I just got word that I"m being transferred to the east coast in a few months and I need to sell it.
This is a U152 Bronco - the U15 is a wagon (the other model available in 1972 was the half cab), and the U152 is the heavy duty version, with better leaf springs and a higher GVWR.
The VIN and Warranty Tag data documents it as a 1972 Light Copper Metallic Bronco, 302, 3 speed manual, so it appears to be equipped as it was sold new. Ford did not stamp a VIN on the Bronco engines, so there"s really no such thing as a "numbers matching" early Bronco, but this one appears to have the original engine.
The VIN on the title, the VIN stamped on the frame (near the starter), and the VIN on the glovebox door Warranty Tag ALL MATCH! That"s actually a big deal, given how easy it is to swap a glovebox door, and given how often bodies and frames get swapped around.
The engine is a 302 with a 2bbl carburetor and points ignition. It runs good, and it is in good shape internally - I did a compression test and all the cylinders are within a few PSI of each other. It has new valve cover gaskets, plug wires, new cap and rotor, points and condensor, starter, and a fresh oil change and filter.
The truck was equipped with dual fuel tanks, but I removed the smaller tank and installed a good used rear tank. A lot of folks use a larger aftermarket rear tank that some of the Bronco aftermarket suppliers sell.
The transmission is a three speed manual on the column. I replaced the bushings in the shift linkage and it shifts fine. The clutch works fine.
The transfer case is a Dana 20. It works fine. Four wheel drive works, too.
The rear differential is a Ford 9" with 3.50 gears and a limited slip. I replaced the pinion seal, pinion nut, the axle seals, and the axle bearings.
The front differential is the desirable Dana 44. The earlier Broncos came with the weaker Dana 30. I replaced the wheel bearings in the front diff and disassembled, cleaned, and lubed the hub assemblies.
I installed new Spicer u joints in the rear driveshaft.
The wiring needs a bit of work. Right now, I"m hotwiring it to start it, using a jumper wire and a push-button starter hooked to the starter relay. The wiring appears to be all there, but someone will need to spend some time checking it out. Factory wiring diagrams are available, as are aftermarket wiring harnesses. The truck does have a new battery, new starter relay (NOS Motorcraft), and new large gauge aftermarket battery cables.
The frame is solid; it just has surface rust. The majority of these old Broncos have had the frame horns front and rear hacked for "custom" bumpers; this one was hacked in the rear, so I welded in a pair of replacement frame horns in the back. The front horns on this weren"t hacked.
It has a new windshield and weather stripping. Both doors have glass, too.
The suspension will need some new rubber bushings. I installed new Wild Horses 4x4 shocks front and rear a few months ago.
The truck has manual drum brakes. I installed a new master cylinder, new wheel cylinders, and new flex hoses all around. It stops fine now.
The wheels are 15 x 8; I am pretty sure they came from a later model Bronco. I sandblasted them down to bare metal and painted them with high quality wheel paint. I don"t have a spare tire, but I do have an extra 15 x 8 wheel for it.
The tires are older and don"t have a lot of tread; I would plan to replace them soon.
The front and rear seats are original early Bronco seats. The driver"s seat has new mounts and sliding seat latch. The floor brace under the seat was rusty, so I had to modify and cut a few areas to mount the seat.
This Bronco has the typical Bronco rust. Specifically, the top, which is also dented, has some rust through on the front edge. You can buy brand new reproduction tops for these, but I had planned to go with a soft top. The hood is actually in good shape, with only surface rust. The front floors are rusted through, but I have included new front floor pans. The floor in the rear will need patches or replacement panels. The rear wheelwells are rusted in areas where they meet the quarter panel. The driver"s side quarter can be used with some minor work. The passenger side quarter is crunched up a bit, but I have included a complete OEM quarter panel. The OEM quarter panel needs some work as well, but nothing major. The kick panels are rusted through on both sides and will need to be replaced. I would plan to replace both front fenders, but you could use them as-is for now, especially if you cut the lip and install fender flares. The inner rocker panels look like they can be used (one may need a patch) but I would plan to replace the outer rockers. The door posts and striker posts will need to be replaced; you might be able to save one. As you can see in the engine bay picture, the rear side of the engine compartment has a hole rusted through (both sides have this); this is a typical problem area and will be an easy to patch. The windshield frame is generally solid, but there"s at least one area with rust bubbles. The doors are in generally good shape but the driver"s side door will need a patch at the bottom. The passenger side door sticks shut, so you have to release it by pulling on the latch rod inside the door.
So, what"s the good news on the body? Well, it"s all original sheetmetal and paint. You"re MUCH better off buying one with all the sins of the past visible than you are buying one with shiny paint covering bondo over chicken wire! ! You"ll pay a lot more for one with shiny paint, and it will cost you a LOT more undoing and fixing someone"s hack job! ! More good news on the body - EVERYTHING is available via the aftermarket. You can either buy it piece by piece, or you can buy an entire body, all panels installed and gaps good to go. All you need to do is paint! A complete body will run you about $12,000 and there"s at least one company that uses the original Ford dies to stamp out the panels. Given what these trucks are bringing these days (well over $50,000 for a nicely restored one and over $100,000 for a high quality resto-mod), spending $12,000 to have a minty brand new body isn"t a bad idea.
Another option would be to find a donor body - these run about $2,500 or so for a good one. The nice thing about buying a donor body is that the official VIN is stamped on the frame, so you wouldn"t have to do anything shady when swapping a more solid body onto this frame, since the frame has the official VIN stamp and you have the title for the frame.
The Bronco comes with a bunch of spare parts. As you can see in the pictures, it comes with a tailgate, front floor pans, and a passenger rear quarter panel. There are also a few boxes of parts including complete electric wiper setup (used OEM), tailgate hardware, etc.
I have a Texas title, in my name. Again, it matches the Warranty Tag and frame VIN stamp. It is a bonded title, which just means that the title was lost at some point, and I had to apply for a new title and pay a bond. The title looks just like a regular Texas title; it"s just annotated that it"s a bonded title. The bond is removed 3 years after I paid the bond.
I prefer a wire transfer for payment.
I can assist with loading if you"re going to have the vehicle picked up.