Ford Model A Slant-Window Fordor w/2 Engines + Tons of NEW Parts and Tools! (1931)
Sale price: US $4,999.00 Make an Offer
| Condition: | Used |
| Year: | 1931 |
| Make: | Ford |
| Model: | Model A |
| Transmission: | Manual |
| Vehicle Title: | Clean |
| Mileage: | 9300 |
Strongsville, Ohio, United States
Vehicle description
SCROLL ALL THE WAY DOWN FOR 163 HIGH-RESOLUTION PHOTOS INCLUDING PICS OF ALL THE PARTS AND COPIES OF RECEIPTS IF VIEWING ON A SMART PHONE - Turn phone sideways and this text should be easier to read. 1931 Ford Model A Fordor - Slant Window Indented Firewall Briggs Body Includes 2 buildable engines, 2 transmissions (one newly rebuilt), tons of brand new parts, tools, new engine hoist, two new engine stands, and more! CLEAN Ohio Title in my name - Car is located in Strongsville, OH I bought this car in April from a friend’s dad. It was parked 30 years ago and moved a couple of times between a few different heated storage facilities, but never started again. I had hoped to do a refresh of the engine in the car but found cracks in the block and head and later bought two more engines. My job just increased my travel time, and I just don’t have the time or space to deal with it anymore so I’m selling EVERYTHING. I AM ONLY INTERESTED IN SELLING EVERYTHING TOGETHER AS A PACKAGE AND WILL NOT PIECE IT OUT. This is a cool example of an early 1970’s Model A build, as it has 1940’s hydraulic (“juice”) brakes, and 1935 16” wire wheels. It also has a unique all-steel top and a steel front visor that someone crafted by hand. If you’re looking for a Model A project, this is a chance to get most of the parts you need to get it running, along with the more desirable late ’31 Slant Window Fordor. There is almost NO WOOD in this body. The only wood are the small, thin pieces inside the doors inside the channels that surround the windows. This is rare for a Model A, as most were built with lots of wood. The interior has the original 1970’s black Naugahyde that is in amazing condition. The steel roof was painted with a black textured paint. The car appears to have been all black at one point, then someone painted over part of the black with a beige color. The entire floorboard was cleaned and painted with rust converter/primer then painted with black Rust-Oleum. This car is extremely solid with no major rust or any rust-through that I have found. There are actually 3 engines, but the block and head that’s in the car have major cracks and are junk. Engine #1 – This is the best engine and was made in September, 1930. # A3904697. This block has very good babbitt, rotates freely, and still has shims in the main bearings. You will need at least one replacement piston, as one of the piston’s had to be destroyed to remove it as it was seized in the block. A new set of pistons is only $100, and the cylinder walls are in great shape. You should be able to hone the cylinders by hand (new hone included) and install new rings and pistons and get this engine running with everything that’s included. Engine #2 – This is a July 1928 block and is a bit rare as it has the beavertail crankshaft, and the 5-bearing camshaft (most other years have 3 bearings). This engine also turns freely and could likely be used as-is, with the addition of a thrust bearing that is available from the parts sellers. The b abbitt at the rear is worn, so there’s front to back movement of the crank which can be fixed with the thrust bearing. Though I think you can get this engine running, it is probably ready for a total rebuild, so maybe you get the 1930 engine running now and rebuild this engine for later. Engine #3 – In the car. This is a 1929 block, # A 2115393, made in August, 1929. The block and head are junk, but the crank, pistons, cam, etc., are all there and are useable. 2 CYLINDER HEADS – These are the scripted Ford logo heads, and I do not see any cracks or defects. These should both be useable as-is. 2 TRANSMISSIONS - I purchased a newly rebuilt transmission that was rebuilt by a gentleman who recently retired from Snyder’s Model A Parts. He used a Snyder’s rebuild kit and installed the modern end seal kit and a new shift tower and shifter arm. The rebuilt trans cost me $500.There is also a transmission and complete clutch, bellhousing and flywheel assembly in the car that appear to be in good working condition. NEW PARTS – See the photos for pictures of all the new parts that are included, and toward the end are photos of the invoices for most of the parts I purchased new. CARBURETOR – Includes a RARE newly rebuilt Zenith carb that is the correct side-bowl carburetor for the late1931 indented firewall Model A. These are very hard to find and this one cost me $350. Includes a new, correct shut-off valve for the indented firewall that mounts in the engine compartment, and a new, correct fuel line. There’s a new Distributor, cap, coil, plugs, wires, Intake Manifold, Ceramic-Coated Exhaust Manifold, Leakless Water Pump, and a new aluminum 2-blade fan (has a couple knicks in the finish). TONS OF NEW ENGINE PARTS including new Stainless Steel Valves, tappets, springs, piston rings, gears, front hub, new cylinder head studs and engine bolt kits, etc., etc. See the printed lists in the photos. NEW FULL-FLOW OIL FILTER KIT included – See photos. New gaskets, hoses, belt, battery tray, new front engine mount kit, carburetor or and distributor control rods, etc. See photos. Includes a new Harbor Freight 2-Ton Engine Hoist (this is their big one), two lifting straps, two new HF 4-wheel engine stands, four new 6-ton jack stands, a new 3-ton Daytona low-profile floor jack, and an oil drain pan. These have only seen minimal use in the few months I’ve owned this car. Includes the 4 wheel dollies that fit under the tires and allow you to easily move the car around. You can even spin it around in one spot! Trailer in photos NOT included. TOOLS – Engine hone, valve lapper, compression test kit, torque wrench, Model A valve spring compressor, valve guide removal tool, piston ring compressor and expander, etc. See photos. Also includes an assortment of assembly lube, gasket sealant, engine paint, valve grinding compound, etc. There is a starter and a 6-volt alternator in the car. I do not have a battery, and have not tested any of the electrical system. Has an aftermarket electric wiper. Includes a new TURN SIGNAL KIT that mounts to the steering wheel. BOOKS – Great set of Model A books including all 3 Les Andrews books, restoration guidelines, and more. See photos. WHEELS and TIRES – Has 1935 wire wheels. The tires are old and have good tread, and I filled them with air in April and they have held air until now. Most likely you will need new tires if you start driving it a lot, but these should get you started for your first road tests. BRAKES are early 1940’s hydraulic brakes, with a master cylinder mounted under the front passenger’s feet. This was a common “hot-rod” upgrade in the 60’s and 70’s. I bought a new master cylinder and bleed kit that comes with it. I have not tested the brakes or taken them apart. GAS TANK – I flushed out the old gas and poured in about 2 gallons of new gas and haven’t seen any leaks. Installed a new stainless gas cap and radiator cap. The radiator was filled with coolant when I got the car and I have not seen any leaks. NEGATIVES – The running boards were rebuilt in the 70’s with plywood underneath, and the driver-side board is collapsing. You can purchase brand new running boards from the parts suppliers that are made specifically for the late-model ’31 slant window cars. The car also needs a driver-side rear door window. These are still available new for $100. All the window mechanisms work and the windows roll up and down. All door latches work. $500 deposit required within 48 hours. Final payment must be cash or local bank check. A personal check would work too, but we would need to wait for the funds to clear before you could take possession of the car Buyer is responsible for arranging their own pickup and transport. I can help with loading items. Please message me with any questions. – Thank you! - John -